Heat Pump Repair

  If your heat pump isn't heating, first check simple things: thermostat settings (set to "Heat," temp higher than room), power (breaker), and clear the outdoor unit of debris/snow. If that fails, look for a dirty air filter, which restricts airflow, or frozen coils. More complex issues requiring a pro include low refrigerant (leaks), a bad reversing valve, or a faulty capacitor, so call a technician if basic checks don't work. 

 If your heat pump isn't cooling, first check the thermostat settings (set to "Cool," temp lower than room), clean or replace the air filter, and ensure the outdoor unit's coils aren't blocked or frozen; common deeper issues requiring a pro include low refrigerant (due to leaks), a bad reversing valve, tripped breakers, or a failing compressor/capacitor. Start with simple fixes, but call an HVAC technician for anything complex, as issues like low refrigerant or valve problems need professional repair.  

  A heat pump stuck in defrost often signals airflow issues (dirty filters/coils), low refrigerant, or a bad component like the defrost board, sensors (thermostat/coil), or reversing valve, preventing it from returning to heating mode. To troubleshoot, first check/clean coils and filters, then try running it in "Fan Only" mode or turning it off at the breaker for a manual defrost, but if it remains stuck, you'll need a pro to check electronics, wiring, and refrigerant levels. Immediate Steps (Manual Defrost) 

  If your heat pump's auxiliary (AUX) heat runs constantly, it usually means the system can't keep up due to cold weather, a dirty filter/coils, air leaks, low refrigerant, or a malfunctioning component (like a stuck relay, bad sensor, or defrost issue), forcing backup heat to work overtime, which is costly. Check your thermostat settings (ensure it's on "Heat," not "Emergency Heat"), replace the air filter, and clear snow from the outdoor unit; if it persists, call a pro for issues like low refrigerant or a bad defrost board.  

 Heat pump short cycling is when the system turns on and off rapidly (every few minutes) instead of completing a full heating/cooling cycle (10-20 mins), causing inefficiency, higher bills, and major strain on components like the compressor, often due to issues like a dirty air filter, low refrigerant, frozen coils, or an oversized unit, leading to premature wear and potential failure.  

 It's normal for a heat pump's outdoor coil to get lightly frosted in cold, humid weather, triggering a defrost cycle to melt it; however, significant ice buildup means a problem like restricted airflow (dirty filter/blocked coil), low refrigerant, bad defrost controls (sensor, timer, relay), or a faulty reversing valve, requiring you to clear debris, check the filter, or call a pro to prevent damage. Normal Frost vs. Problem Ice 

 Heat pump thermostat/control issues often stem from simple fixes like dead batteries, wrong settings, or dirty filters, but can also signal complex problems like faulty wiring, bad capacitors, refrigerant leaks, or a failing reversing valve, causing the system to not turn on, run constantly, short-cycle, or blow incorrect temperatures, often needing professional diagnosis for wiring, controls, or components like sensors/capacitors.